Wyalusing State Park, WI Ice Climbing

Nestled in the far south-west corner of Wisconsin, Wyalusing State Park ice climbing is a hidden gem for climbers coming from Madison, Chicago, or the Twin-Cities. Ice climbing is split up between the park proper, and the nearby property known as The Quarry. The park star climbs, “Main Flow” and “Quarry Monster” challenge even seasoned climbers with WI4 grade purely-vertical ice climbs, while the gullies and ravines of the park offer up less frequented and sometimes undocumented ice routes for beginners or new ice leaders! One could not get to all of the climbs in one day.

Wyalusing State Park Ice Climbs

Mississippi Ridge South

This area is also often referred to as the climbs “by the railroad tracks” and follow the ridgeline in the southwest corner of the park. Park along the road so as not to block traffic in either direction, or park in the private lot across the street for Quarry Monster. Stay off of the railroad proper and out of the allotted railroad easement, respect the train and give it it’s space! The first climb upon following the tracks is a seep that forms in some years and doesn’t, with no official name. Pass this and go straight for the Main Flow, it is the tallest climb in this area, often forming as pure vertical WI-4. Scramble up (carefully) from one of the less steeper ridgelines no more than 100 ft left or right or bring a competent leader to set the climb!

Highway-X Gullies

There are lots of ravines and gullies that come off the top of the bluffs towards Highway X which passes through the park. The stretch west of the park entrance proper towards the southwest end of the park has ice features that form as simple cascading WI-2 and 3 as well as a few freestanding pillars. Be aware that the south side of Highway X is technically private property and you may need the owner’s permission to climb there.

The Quarry

Arguably the crown gem of the ice climbing available here: the quarry area boasts some of the fatter, taller, and ice climbs that stay frozen longer than the rest of the park. This area is on private property and not part of the park proper, but the owner is generally open to climbers visiting as long as they let him know. Remember you are a guest, respect the tenants who live in the trailers there and their personal space, and send Todd a thank you!:

Quarry Monster Facebook Page

Sandcastle Cave

Sandcastle Cave ice is located in the park proper along the Sandcastle Cave trail and features some milder climbs worthwhile to the beginner, new leader or those looking to add to their tick-list. Be respectful to park visitors and don’t use your crampons on any stairways if present.

If you are not an experienced climber, consider hiring a guide service or finding an experienced mentor to evaluate your safety. Climbing is dangerous with no room for error and cannot be learned simply by reading online and watching video tutorials. Learning the ropes with an experienced climber allows for a second look at your safety systems and is paramount to a safe climbing experience

Improve Your Climbing Skills with Roam Online Education

Looking to sharpen your climbing knowledge? There is never too much to learn when if comes to personal safety on the rock! Our affiliate partner, Roam Media has created an in-depth resource for outdoor adventures, from climbing sport, trad, alpine, to trip planning and outdoor camping and cooking skills, a Roam Academy subscription is an affordable way to increase your knowledge of the outdoors and improve the success and safety of your trips.

Check out the Rock Climbing Essentials class, taught by famous rock and ice climber Conrad Anker! Conrad has had a prolific climbing career. From traditional rock and ice climbing, to mixed alpine adventures, he has climbed in every climbing situation and on every continent. Star of Amazon and Netflix classics like “Meru” and “The Wildest Dream”, Conrad has experienced all aspects of climbing. Many of his famous climbs are alongside longtime partner Jimmy Chin, photographer, and filmmaker behind the Oscar and Emmy-awarded “Free Solo” documentary with Alex Honnold. This class will refine your skills, expand your knowledge, and provide a greater connection to climbing by one of the greatest climbers to ever live. Included in a Roam subscription is access to Jimmy Chin’s outdoor photography course, to help you learn to frame the perfect angles, lighting, and composition for your trip photos from the pro’s.

Stoked.Org – Outdoor Education for Underpriveleged Youth

For Each Roam Subscription purchased from Midwest Outside’s link, Roam has partnered with youth leadership group Stoked.org to provide an additional, free subscription to a Stoked.Org Student to help under-served youth gain access to outdoor education and discover a life of adventure. Join today to benefit your own skills and pursuits as well as providing opportunities to a stoked.org student!

Nearby Opportunities

Governor Dodge Ice

Lone Rock, WI Ice

Winona, MN Ice

Devil’s Lake Rock Climbing